We know we shouldn’t give into that little voice in the back of our heads telling us to buy unnecessary fast fashion items. But it’s hard- especially when these clothes are so attractive and cheap! They call our names, beckoning us to reach out and buy them. You can be so trendy, and for so little! A 99p dress? Bargain! We almost forget the consequences… until the package arrives and the clothes inside are poorly made, paper-thin, and have contributed to damaging the planet.
Of course we want to shop sustainably; none of us actively enjoy harming the environment. One option is to buy from sustainable fashion brands, but often this means paying almost triple the amount you would pay at the average fast fashion site- an unrealistic and inaccessible move for many. This is a stark reminder of the true cost of fashion; the price that goes into making ethical clothes. Many sustainable fashion campaigners argue that consumers must leave behind the world of cheap clothes and accept that sustainability and expense go hand in hand. Put simply: if you’re not paying, someone else is.
However, this attitude alienates a demographic most of us belong to- the humble student, stretching out their student loan to include as many clothes as possible. Many of us are searching for a way that we can buy what we like, while saving money and fighting for the future of our planet.
To address this, we first need to answer a simple question: why is sustainable fashion so expensive?
Firstly, let’s take a quick look at why buying new sustainable items- such as a single t-shirt- could potentially cost hundreds. In comparison to the insanely affordable world of fast fashion, this seems ridiculously expensive, but that proves how normalised cheap clothing is. Sustainable fashion brands reflect the true cost of clothing that treats both people and planet fairly. If an item of clothing is cheap for the consumer, garment workers and the environment is paying instead.
Image via Houstonia Mag, 7/9/2020
What goes into producing sustainable fashion?
Sourcing the right materials: finding sustainable materials such as cotton and linen are more expensive as they are of higher quality rather than synthetic materials that are found in cheap clothing. They are also more likely to be sourced from areas that can produce these fabrics without leading to major water shortages and detriment to the local environment.
Fair and safe working conditions: sustainable fashion brands have to make sure that the factories they employ pay their workers a fair wage, treat them properly and have safe working conditions. It seems unthinkable that necessities (i.e chemical protection equipment, stable buildings and freedom from sexual harassment) are frequently overlooked by fast fashion brands that opt to cut corners in order to maximise their profits.
Certification of transparency: companies need certification to ensure transparency and so that they can guarantee that their clothes are ethically produced. Fast fashion companies often avoid doing this as it is a costly process, and can be theoretically avoided by offering the consumer a series of seemingly ethical but ultimately ‘greenwashed’ sustainability campaigns [you can read our article on greenwashing here.]
The market for sustainable fashion must compete with fast fashion: in terms of affordability, fast fashion brands win every time and their cheap prices are more attractive to customers. As a result of this, sustainable fashion companies have to create their own demographic of consumers, who are often a clientele that prefer a more exclusive price point- consider Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood, for instance. The RRP (recommended retail price) has to offer a margin of profits back to the company, as well as covering the cost of sustainable practices and fair wages.
Retail stores: if the brand elects to sell in large retail stores, the price will also be inflated to incorporate the increased number of people involved. This is an advantage of direct-to-consumer sales, i.e. online businesses.
It is time to redefine ‘shopping’ and look for alternatives to buying ‘brand new.’
Second-hand clothing is often associated with being unhygienic and in poor condition, but it has been proved that these are misconceptions. If anything, these clothes are more hygienic, as there are policies in place at charity and vintage shops to ensure suitable quality and hygiene. It is also likely that ‘new’ clothes are not clean in the way that the consumer is led to believe- often they have harmful chemicals applied to them which result in damage to the person making the clothes, have a negative impact on the environment and can be harmful to our health as individuals.
As for the ‘poor quality’ associated with second-hand clothes, it would be false to claim this as these clothes have proved to be durable, going through countless washes and worn already many times. Cheap clothes are not likely to have a long lifespan as their poor quality renders them practically unwearable by the time they get a chance to be sold as second-hand clothing. There is also the negative belief that second-hand clothes are out of fashion; this is also a misconception as fashion works in a constant cycle, with all clothes coming in and out of style. Fashion is a way of expressing yourself and you should feel free to wear what you want and not choose what's currently in at the moment. Second-hand shopping allows you to discover and take control of your style; a way of shopping that’s here for the long haul.
Is less really more?
Quality over quantity is a phrase that should always be kept in mind when thinking about your next purchase. Do you really need another t-shirt, or are the ones already lying in your wardrobe good enough to last you? Chances are, the best option is to save your money and the planet!
It’s important to realise that instead of buying lots of items that are cheap and will be disposed of quickly, a great alternative is to find staple pieces that could be worn any season and used year after year. Maybe start the search for a good quality winter jacket that won’t go out of style or invest in a pair of jeans that you could use year in, year out. Many people when they think of ‘quality’ assume that means unaffordable designer brands. It’s worth remembering that the majority of designer brands are equally as problematic as the fast fashion brands, and besides; the search for sustainable staple items doesn’t have to be expensive. Here are some great options to choose from…
Affordable ways to shop sustainably online
Here are some alternatives to buying your clothes ‘brand new’:
Charity shops and thrift stores: not only are these places really cheap but it can be a lot of fun to go searching for clothes and discovering items unexpectedly.
Depop, Vinted & Ebay: these apps are similar to the experience of going thrifting, except it’s online- perfect for lockdown shopping!
Renting your clothes: give the clothes in your wardrobe a better life and earn money whilst doing it. This is becoming popular in the world of sustainable fashion and could be the future of circular fashion. There are plenty of renting sites such as; HURR, Rotaro and By Rotation.
A clothes swap: by organising a swap, your unwanted clothes could be a great addition to someone else’s style, plus they may also have items that would look good in your wardrobe too! The app Dopplle is a clothes swapping app designed for university students and can be an easy way to start your first clothes swap.
There are plenty of ways to wear what you want while choosing a sustainable option. However, it is important that you should never feel guilty about buying a piece of clothing from a fast-fashion brand. Their advertising has programmed us all that it is normal to buy more for less. Shopping ethically is a journey, and one that should be enjoyable. It is the little steps in our behaviour that can be massive strides for the future of sustainable fashion.
Chiara Sciurba
The Fashion Society
Comments