It’s happened to all of us. A brand releases a 'sustainable' or 'conscious' collection of clothing, and we’re thrilled! We’ve been supporting that brand for years and now they’re starting to think about the environmental impacts of their company – amazing! Except, wait a minute, apart from declaring their clothes are sustainable and using more green colours in their advertising, there’s no other information on what exactly makes the products and the brand sustainable… Welcome to the world of greenwashing.
What is greenwashing?
Greenwashing is misinformation. It occurs when a brand or company uses misleading information or messaging to appear sustainable in order to make themselves look good and appeal to a wider consumer base. Companies also know that, generally, people are willing to spend more money on a sustainable item and therefore, they try to cash in on people’s morals. Greenwashing can come in many forms such as being purposely vague on their sustainability initiatives (i.e. referring to their products as 'green' or 'eco-friendly', or flat out using false claims about their products. With the focus shifting to the environment recently due to the looming threat of climate change, this marketing tactic is unfortunately becoming more and more popular.
In the fashion industry, we see greenwashing from a lot of the bigger fashion brands. It’s easier to spot these because even though they release a small collection of 'sustainable' clothing, the remaining 99% of their clothing and their company remains unchanged. Can a brand really be sustainable if they’re releasing tons of new collections regularly and seasonally? The answer is no.
https://fashionjournal.com.au/life/news/this-instagram-account-calls-out-companies-for-greenwashing/
The biggest problem with greenwashing is the fact that the word 'sustainable' has become such an overused buzzword in today’s society that it’s becoming almost meaningless. A brand can technically, by definition, be sustainable if they have even the most minor environmental initiatives. However, as a conscious consumer, we need to define what this means for ourselves and start aligning those values to the brands we support.
Another issue with greenwashing is that it undermines the efforts and commitments of sustainable brands, and it creates mistrust between brands and their consumers. It’s our responsibility as the consumer to educate ourselves and be able to identify the fake sustainable brands from the real ones who are actually putting in the work.
What can I do as a consumer to identify and avoid greenwashing?
As consumers, we have the purchasing power to make changes. It’s really important to be mindful of your purchases and the larger consequences they may have. Fortunately, there are a number of things you can do to spot greenwashing and avoiding falling into the trap.
Do your research on a company’s specific environmental initiatives and achievements before you make a purchase. Do they use only recycled materials? Are they carbon neutral? Usually, if a brand has done the work to be sustainable and truly cares about reducing the impact their brand has on the planet, they will be proud and want to shout it from the rooftops. If you come up empty, then you’ve got yourself a greenwasher.
Educate yourself on the types of sustainable fabrics. These could be anywhere from natural fibres (i.e. organic cotton, hemp, linen) to recycled or deadstock fabrics, to more innovative fabrics (i.e. Tencel, Econyl). If an item is made from non-recycled polyester and a brand is claiming to be sustainable, you can go ahead and empty your cart, because polyester is made from petroleum.
Look for transparency. It’s always a good idea to check out a brands social media pages because the real sustainable brands will educate their followers through their posts and be transparent about their initiatives and validate the claims they’re making. These brands will also share information on how to care for your item to make it last longer, provide end of lifecycle options, and use recyclable packaging/packing materials.
Look for brands who are certified. Usually, sustainable brands will have 3rd party certifications that demonstrate they have met certain criteria for their environmental and ethical practices (i.e. EcoCert, Global Organic Textile Standard, Fairwear Foundation, Ethical Trading initiative, bluesign, and Certified B Corporation). This is a great way to differentiate between sustainable vs. unsustainable brands.
Use the Good on You app. This app is a sustainable fashionista’s best friend. It rates brands based on how well they are doing with their environmental and ethical practices. It also will provide you with alternative brands to the ones who aren’t rated so highly. I’ve personally discovered so many cool sustainable brands on this app!
Support small businesses. It’s always a nice feeling when you shop with a small brand vs. a big brand because they put so much more love and care into everything they create. After all, they’re usually the ones who market, design, make and ship the clothes themselves. They also aren’t mass producing clothing, which means they’re using less resource-intensive processes and producing much less waste.
We hope this was helpful and that you’re feeling a bit more confident on what greenwashing is and how to avoid it. Just remember – every time you make a purchase, you’re making a decision, so strive to make good ones!
Anna Copeland
University of Edinburgh Fashion Society
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