To say this year has been tough is an understatement; even the seemingly indestructible fashion industry has suffered. In 2020 the industry has had its ups and downs but as we draw closer to the end of the year we can see that fashion will come out on top
2020 has given everyone time to reflect on their values and for many of us that meant finding out more about the fast fashion industry as its problematic actions were widely shared across social media.
People are waking up to the significance of reducing consumption as sustainable fashion circulates the internet. There is a better understanding of climate change and its relation to the fashion industry and many of us are becoming less wasteful with our clothes; donating or selling on. Thrifting and apps such as Depop and Vinted are becoming some of our favourite ways to shop!
In spring of this year, it was seven years since the Dhaka garment factory collapsed in Bangladesh. This tragedy killed 1134 people and injured around 2500; seven years later it remains more relevant than ever with the desperate need to improve working conditions and better pay for the garment workers, as they are not being treated fairly.
The Dhaka factory Rana Plaza, shortly after collapsing. Photo by AM Ahad/AP https://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/apr/24/bangladesh-building-collapse-shops-west
Has Covid-19 impacted and worsened the lives of those that make our clothes?
Unfortunately, it would seem that the impact is massive; with manufacturers cancelling orders and payments, workers are losing their jobs. As for the ones ‘lucky’ enough to still be employed, they are often going without pay with no safety precautions in place to protect them from the virus.
Many big brands have been contributing to harmful actions further along the supply chain, often not paying their workers and forcing them to work in unsafe environments. Many brands, including H&M, Zara, Nike and Next have been contributing. Through social media campaigns and some excellent investigative journalism this year, many more of us are now aware of the horrific working conditions and can help bring about change.
This triggered the #PayUp movement, raising awareness of the issue, with lots of people learning more about the dark side of fast fashion.
Several major brands agreed to pay up and change their policies as many of their customers were shocked by their inexcusable actions. However, supply chain factories used by brands such as Walmart, Urban Outfitters and Topshop are still refusing to pay their workers.
The battle for garment workers continues, with the pandemic creating more challenges than ever.
Protesters block access to a fast fashion store. Photo by Textile Rebellion
Is fast fashion slowing down?
Fast fashion is clearly damaging and negatively affecting our planet. However, the cancellation of Fashion Weeks brought about an exciting new prospect for sustainability in the form of Digital Fashion Weeks, and virtual shows are now happening online every other month. This allows the industry to re-evaluate the unsustainable production of collections, with many brands electing to produce just two a year- a reduction from the standard eight. This will be less destructive to the planet and help to minimise waste.
Along with this digital venture, buying second hand is becoming trendier, with more people choosing to shop this way. However, completely avoiding fast fashion is not a solution for everybody, and as individuals we should not feel guilty for occasionally supporting this industry.
What can we do?
Send your go-to fast fashion brand an email asking that they pay their workers fairly, improve working conditions and commit to using better production processes.
If you have a penny to spare, donate to any organisation that would help support ethical fashion (links and resources below).
Choose different ways of filling your wardrobe! You can read about haulternatives here, or support brilliant independent brands such as these.
2020 has been a turning point for the fashion industry, as we all took a step back and slowed down. It has allowed all of us to move forward and start to break our bad habits, choosing more ethical options. Many of us are taking to social media to discuss sustainability, signing petitions and writing directly to brands. Thousands of us are elevating the voices of those demanding fairer worker’s rights. Every purchase and every social media post can make a difference.
Keep wearing your values!
Chiara Sciurba
Edinburgh Fashion Society
Links you can check out for more information:
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